North Tour: Bismarck and Mandan, North Dakota, Winter 1804-05

Travel north on ND Highway 1804, denoting the year of the outbound journey of the Lewis & Clark Expedition, to Double Ditch Indian Village State Historic Site. On October 22, 1804, William Clark noted that the expedition passed “an old Village on the S. S. and the upper of the 6 Villages the Mandans occupied about 25 years ago this village was entirely cut off by the Sioux & one of the others nearly, the Small Pox distroyed great Numbers.” Smallpox again wrecked havoc on the Mandan at this site, causing its abandonment. Few facilities are on site, but a state recreation area is in the vicinity and has more amenities.

Discover Lewis & Clark era artifacts and displays. View the evocative artwork of Karl Bodmer, George Catlin, and Michael Haynes. Learn about the Expedition's stay at nearby Fort Mandan.

Visit a full-size replica of Fort Mandan, where the Expedition wintered in 1804-05. Paddling from here in April 1805, Lewis & Clark were the first Euro-Americans to scientifically explore and map the Missouri River upriver. Thanks to information gathered from friendly tribes in the area, they had a good idea of what they would encounter.

Although named for William Clark, Fort Clark was not built until 1830 to be near the Mandan tribe. It was a privately owned fur trading post, not meant for military use. The first steamboat arrived in 1832 with trading goods. George Catlin, who painted the scene above, was one of the passengers. Another steamboat stopping in 1837 unleashed a wave of smallpox, causing another devastating pandemic to sweep through the Upper Midwest, killing thousands of Indians and up to 90% of the remaining Mandans at the village. The Arikara tribe would later occupy the village for about 25 years.

Learn about the culture and traditions of the Native American tribes near whom Lewis & Clark wintered. It was in this vicinity among the Hidatsa tribe where the captains hired Toussaint Charbonneau, gaining in the bargain his wife Sacagawea and their baby boy, Jean Baptiste. She gave birth on February 12, 1805 after drinking a concoction containing crushed rattlesnake rattles.

The traveler has a choice. Many will choose to return to Bismarck or continue on their own path. Intrepid visitors with time enough to explore further will choose to continue north to visit two more stops before returning to Bismarck. Garrison Dam opened in 1960 and it backs up Lake Sakakawea, the third largest man-made lake in the US. An Audubon National Wildlife Refuge is to the east.

The site does indeed overlook the original Fort Mandan location. Changes in the course of the river over the years have obliterated the actual site. Archaeological digs have discovered many Indian artifacts as well. Two historical markers are on hand and a view of the river rewards the visitor.

Return to downtown Bismarck to view the skyscraper style state capitol building. Be sure to see the statue of Sacagawea and her son Jean Baptiste near the rear of the nearby North Dakota Heritage Center.